Editor’s note:The old sparrow in Dongting Lake-seen the wind and waves. The Dongting is wide, and there is a spirit that makes people stop and move at the folds of the waves. Yueyang, which is connected with the river and the sea, has both "Baling Victory" and Yuezhou New Singing. Recently, Red Net reporters came to Yueyang to talk with a group of craftsmen and make a new portrait of "Dongting Lake Old Sparrow".
Longevity dried sauce is a traditional flavor specialty in Changshou Town, Pingjiang County, Hunan Province, with a long history and unique taste.
Grinding the marinade.
Bake the dried sauce.
Pingjiang dried sauce has been passed down for more than 160 years.
Pingjiang dried sauce is very popular with customers.
Red Net Time Reporter Xiao Yi Yueyang Report
Longevity dried sauce is a traditional flavor specialty in Changshou Town, Pingjiang County, Hunan Province, with a long history and unique taste.
According to Pingjiang County Records, in the seventh year of Xianfeng in Qing Dynasty (1857), an old man named He Fenglin in Changshou Town, Pingjiang County, Yueyang County, constantly pondered and repeatedly developed tofu to make dried salt skin, and gradually invented and formed "dried sauce with many treasures and five spices". Its formula and production are strictly confidential and handed down from generation to generation. Duozhen spiced sauce is black, shiny, fresh, tender, salty, spicy, sweet and fragrant. When eaten in the mouth, it is crispy and chewy, appetizing, and has a unique taste, which is very popular.
Sauce-dried business is better than wine for 160 years.
Old man He Fenglin became the founder of Changshou Dried Sauce, and Changshou Town is famous for its dried sauce, which has been passed down for more than 160 years. Speaking of it, He Guangwei, a 52-year-old resident of Changshou Town, is the fifth generation inheritor of Changshou Dried Sauce, and also the municipal non-genetic inheritor of the memory of Changshou Dried Sauce.
At that time, He Weifeng, the eldest son of the old man He Fenglin, owned a hotel in Longevity Street. The cold dishes served at that time were nothing more than peanuts and pig’s head meat. The old man He Weifeng thought, Longevity Street people love tofu. If only tofu could be served as a cold dish. After many experiments, the old man used the traditional technology of marinating and baking food in Longevity Street. He marinated the special dried bean curd with chicken soup, fennel, cinnamon, etc., and then baked it slowly with charcoal fire to make it tasty. Finally, he produced the dried bean curd with square inch size, copper coin thickness, black and shiny, and fragrant, and named it "Duozhen Sauce Dried". One turn of cotton thread is used every ten pieces, which is called one tube. Because it tastes mellow, chewy and refreshing, drinkers always bring back a few tubes of sauce after drinking in the store. In this way, the sauce business is even better than the wine business.
Legend has it that Hunan students in the Qing Dynasty went to Beijing to take the exam, and when they were in palace examination, they talked about the specialties of Sanxiang, especially the spiced dried sauce, which was heard by the emperor and paid tribute to the emperor. In order to let the emperor’s concubines taste the delicious and original sauce, it is often your official duty to ride thousands of miles quickly and deliver it day and night. At that time, there was a saying that spiced sauce was famous in the Central Plains and made a splash in the capital.
The dry processing of longevity sauce must use local superior August soybeans with full grains, which are large, uniform in color and high in pulp yield. After the pulp is produced by the stone mill, the spoon slowly scoops the pulp into the cylinder, and the tofu juice is pressed into the press box and pressed into two pieces, and cut into one-inch square tofu slices, that is, marinating a cup of tea in a halogen pot.
Good dried sauce is very particular about marinating. The ingredients of the marinade are produced in the mountain forest, including star anise, fennel, cinnamon, butyl, mother diced, cumin, etc., supplemented by twenty-six spices such as cinnamon, Jiang Mo and Lin Zong. The "colored" dried incense sticks are put into a chicken soup pot and boiled to taste, and then they are soaked in sesame oil when they come out of the stove. "Bean fragrance, halogen fragrance, chicken fragrance, roasted fragrance and sesame fragrance" are called "five fragrances".
"Cinnamon, star anise and other condiments are all from the old mountainous areas. My mother has always told me that these things are still good, fragrant and memorable in the mountains. " He Guangwei said.
At present, He Guangwei and investors have established new factories, and new equipment has been put into commissioning one after another. It is expected that construction will officially start at the end of the year. It is estimated that 5 tons of dried sauce can be produced a day, which is 10 times that of the previous small workshops.
Although the degree of mechanized production of dried sauce has been continuously improved, He Guangwei has been inheriting the ancient skills of his ancestors, especially the core link of marinating. He Guangwei thinks that machinery can’t replace the traditional technology on the issue of marinating. "There is no deliberate industrial standard for the color and softness of dried sauce, and it is purely based on feeling." He Guangwei said that his dried sauce should be marinated for 3 hours at a time, then dried for 2 hours and then marinated again, so it can be repeated twice. "Only in this way can you taste it!"
80% supermarkets in China sell long-lived dried sauce. Longevity wants to build a first-class characteristic dried sauce industrial town.
By the Republic of China, Changshou dried sauce had spread all over the border area of Hunan, Hubei and Jiangxi, and became a major specialty of Pingjiang. After the founding of New China, the public-private partnership, Changshou Supply and Marketing Cooperative hired the daughter-in-law of the old man He Weifeng as a technician to gradually expand the production of dried sauce.
During this period, the production technology and taste of dried sauce were also tentatively improved. Cotton cloth with sesame oil was poured into a large bowl and mixed in batches, and ingredients were boldly added, which not only met the requirements of batch production, but also greatly changed the taste. Under the planned production, ordinary people can’t eat it anytime and anywhere like in the past.
Longevity dried sauce has become a local pillar industry with its unique products. After the reform and opening up, He descendants registered and started the production and processing of "Duozhen Dried Sauce" and became the first individual industrial and commercial household in Changshou Town, Pingjiang. In 1994, they registered the trademark of "Duoqi Dried Sauce" and in 2004, they had the trademark right of "Duozhen Dried Sauce".
At the same time, colleagues from supply and marketing cooperatives have also come out to do business after they are familiar with the production technology of dried sauce, and started to produce dried sauce as self-employed. As a result, dried sauce manufacturers have mushroomed. After the reform and opening up, with the development of market economy, longevity dried sauce quickly went out of the county gate. The manufacturers are all over Beijing, Yunnan, Zhengzhou, Shanghai, Shenzhen and other places, and their products are exported to Singapore, Malaysia, Japan, Europe, etc. The annual output value of Changshou Town alone has reached more than 4 million yuan, and it has become
"At that time, the dried sauce sold well. When selling, only half of the windows were opened, people outside handed over money, and people inside delivered goods. There were often long queues outside." He Guangwei introduced.
At present, Changshou Town has 16 sauce-dried food processing enterprises, nearly 100 small workshops and self-employed, with an annual output value of 150 million yuan and more than 2,000 jobs. There are many brands such as Changshou Duozhen, Duoqi, Xibao, Pengshi, Changshou Shop and Guozhen, with more than ten flavors, which can meet the needs of all kinds of people. At present, 50% of cities in China have Pingjiang dried sauce production plants, and 80% of supermarkets have dried sauces on shelves. There are as many as 100 thousand employees in Pingjiang who are engaged in the processing and sales of dried sauce food in other places.
In the next step, Changshou Town will build a cluster industrial park, a specialized scale market and a standardized production base in accordance with the innovative ideas of industrial clustering, focusing on production and literature, and integrating production and town, and implement supporting functions of production, supply and sales. With the help of border advantages, it will highlight brands, tap resources, promote the coordinated development of tourism and leisure industries and industries, and build a national first-class characteristic dried sauce industrial town.
Attached:
New portrait of "Old Sparrow in Dongting Lake" | Liu Zhengwen, inheritor of Yuezhou Fan: misty rain and rivers and lakes, the bottom of the fan is majestic
New Portrait of "Old Sparrow in Dongting Lake" | Dragon Boat Descendant Xu Guisheng: Race the World from the Upper Reaches of Blue Ink
